We made a short stop in Gračanica Monastery (it’s not allowed to take photos inside). The monastery, which is set on large, grassy grounds, was built by the Serbian king Stefan Milutin in 1321 on the ruins of a 6th-century basilica. The medieval-era paintings here are impressive enough but the real treat is saved for the smaller side, the chapel, which is an enchanted cavern of vivid, lifelike murals.