Africa

There’s nowhere like it on the planet for wildlife, wild lands and rich traditions that endure. Prepare to fall in love.

GEDE RUINS

We stopped next to the lovely coffee shop at the gate of Gede Ruins (🎟️500 KES). This extensive collection of 13th- to 17th-century coral palaces, mosques, and townhouses – some of Kenya’s most important Swahili ruins – lies quietly in the jungle’s green grip. Excavation has...

KILIFI

We ended our journey today in the small coastal town of Kilifi, where we chose a resort on Bofa Beach. It is a beautiful, wide slash of white sand, with swaying palms and a rolling Indian Ocean. Kilifi is a pleasant place to live. A passionate group of Kenyans and expats have transformed...

MNARANI RUINS

We made a short stop at the partly excavated, atmospheric ruins of the Swahili city of Mnarani (🎟️500 KES). It is located high on a bluff just west of the old ferry landing stage on the southern bank of Kilifi Creek. The best-preserved ruin is the Great Mosque, with its finely carved...

VUMA CLIFFS

It was challenging to navigate the dirt road through the village of Takaungu around past spiky fields of sisal and giant baobabs towering above maize crops. We found the end of the road and then walked towards black coral cliffs, pounded relentlessly by the rolling waves of the Indian...

JUMBA LA MTWANA

We must wait for some spare parts to be delivered from the USA for our truck. So we borrowed a tiny Suzuki Alto, which has the problem of crossing every second bumper. We chose to explore the North Coast. Our first stop was Swahili ruins (🎟️500 KES), just north of Mtwapa Creek. Jumba la...

BAMBURI BEACH

After two weeks of trying to repair our truck, which was damaged by port staff, we got so tired and frustrated that we needed to chill out a bit, so we went to Bamburi Beach to Yul’s Restaurant for lunch and a relaxed afternoon. Bamburi Beach is a 6km stretch of palm-shaded white...