We spent a night in the northwestern corner of Jordan, in the hills above the Jordan Valley, where the ruins of the Decapolis city of Gadara are now called Umm Qais. The site is striking because it juxtaposes Roman ruins with an abandoned Ottoman-era village. It also has a tremendous...
We arrived in stormy and windy weather at the Umm Al-Jimal near the Jordanian–Syrian border. An extensive rural settlement in the lava lands east of Mafraq. The incredible ruins are located on the edge of a series of volcanic basalt flows that slope down from Jebel Druze, providing high...
We overnight close to the “Monastery of Caves,” a purpose-built Roman fort in the 4th century. The fort primarily served as a sentry post. Like its famous neighbor Umm Al Jimal, Dayr Al Kahf is also constructed of black basalt, though the scattered ruins here are not nearly as...
A tiny sealed road leads to the tree under which the Prophet Muhammad is said to have rested when traveling between Damascus and Mecca. Despite the surrounding desert, a semi-permanent water pool persists here in a depression surrounded by black lava stones. Its unmissable feature is the...
This small Roman fort, built from basalt in the 3rd century over the ruins of a 1st-century Nabataean building, is between Azraq and Safawi. We do not know why, but the 10km access road stops about 1km from the hilltop fort. The graded track thereafter is not passable by car. Anyway, the...
We drove through dusty Azraq in cloudy and windy weather to the imposing fort where T.E. Lawrence and Sharif Hussein bin Ali based themselves in the winter of 1917–18 during the Arab Revolt against the Turks. Lawrence set up his quarters above the southern entrance while his loyal...
The guard at one of the best-preserved desert buildings of the Umayyads explained frescoes to us, which was our highlight of a trip into the Eastern Desert. The little castle is part of a much greater complex that served as a caravanserai, bathhouse, and hunting lodge. It is renowned for...
A terribly damaged road brought us to the thick-walled structure in the middle of a vast, treeless plain. Although its function and purpose are controversial, this important Umayyad structure remains an exciting sight of the main Azraq–Amman road. Although it isn’t a castle, Kharana was a...
Yesterday, we arrived late to visit Azraq Wetland Reserve, another RSCN project. They did not allow us to park there overnight, so we drove a few minutes to their lodge, where a friendly receptionist managed to get permission from the manager to stay there. The Azraq Basin comprised a...
We drove around 45 minutes from the border to Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, established in 1975 by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN). This 22 sq km reserve was created to reintroduce wildlife that has disappeared from the region, most notably the highly endangered...