Our expedition arrived in Malindi just a few centuries after Vasco da Gama’s fleet landed here in 1498. The town has had its fair share of fortune hunters ever since. It’s a bustling town that doesn’t quite have the architecture of Lamu or the easy-going charm of Watamu...
We spent day and night in Watamu, a small coastal town with a relaxed village atmosphere. It’s known for Watamu Marine National Park, which covers three bays: Watamu, Blue Lagoon, and Turtle – and they’re all white-sand, aquamarine, coconut palm-lined natural beauty. Seabirds...
In the morning, we arrived at the main gate and office of the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve (🎟️721 KES) to check the options and reserve our guide (2400 KES) for the afternoon. This 420-sq-km tract of natural forest – the most significant indigenous coastal forest remaining in East Africa...
We also spent some time in this humble-looking place (🎟️500 KES), one of the world’s most renowned snake research centers. Bio-Ken specializes in antivenin research and acts as an emergency service for snakebite victims throughout the region. A passionate guide led an excellent 30...
We stopped next to the lovely coffee shop at the gate of Gede Ruins (🎟️500 KES). This extensive collection of 13th- to 17th-century coral palaces, mosques, and townhouses – some of Kenya’s most important Swahili ruins – lies quietly in the jungle’s green grip. Excavation has...
We ended our journey today in the small coastal town of Kilifi, where we chose a resort on Bofa Beach. It is a beautiful, wide slash of white sand, with swaying palms and a rolling Indian Ocean. Kilifi is a pleasant place to live. A passionate group of Kenyans and expats have transformed...
We made a short stop at the partly excavated, atmospheric ruins of the Swahili city of Mnarani (🎟️500 KES). It is located high on a bluff just west of the old ferry landing stage on the southern bank of Kilifi Creek. The best-preserved ruin is the Great Mosque, with its finely carved...
It was challenging to navigate the dirt road through the village of Takaungu around past spiky fields of sisal and giant baobabs towering above maize crops. We found the end of the road and then walked towards black coral cliffs, pounded relentlessly by the rolling waves of the Indian...
We must wait for some spare parts to be delivered from the USA for our truck. So we borrowed a tiny Suzuki Alto, which has the problem of crossing every second bumper. We chose to explore the North Coast. Our first stop was Swahili ruins (🎟️500 KES), just north of Mtwapa Creek. Jumba la...
After two weeks of trying to repair our truck, which was damaged by port staff, we got so tired and frustrated that we needed to chill out a bit, so we went to Bamburi Beach to Yul’s Restaurant for lunch and a relaxed afternoon. Bamburi Beach is a 6km stretch of palm-shaded white...