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DIANI

Again, we had bad news in Mombasa: Our cargo was still with customs and would not be cleared in the coming days. So we decided to go to the famous Diani Beach. With a flawless, long stretch of white sand beach hugged by lush forest and kissed by surfable waves, it’s no wonder Diani...

LAMU ISLAND

Lamu is a town, port, and island in the Indian Ocean off the East African coast, 240 km northeast of Mombasa. A former Persian, then Zanzibari, colony, Lamu Island rivaled Mombasa until the late 19th century as an entrepรดt for gold, spices, and enslaved people. The town of Lamu, the...

MARAFA DEPRESSION

We were supposed to stop at Camp Gedeng on the Sabaki River to spot majestic rhinos, but we did not find the correct road there, and nobody answered our call, so we are unsure if the place still exists. After that, we continued our trip to the more intriguing sight inland from the north...

MALINDI

Our expedition arrived in Malindi just a few centuries after Vasco da Gama’s fleet landed here in 1498. The town has had its fair share of fortune hunters ever since. It’s a bustling town that doesn’t quite have the architecture of Lamu or the easy-going charm of Watamu...

WATAMU

We spent day and night in Watamu, a small coastal town with a relaxed village atmosphere. It’s known for Watamu Marine National Park, which covers three bays: Watamu, Blue Lagoon, and Turtle โ€“ and they’re all white-sand, aquamarine, coconut palm-lined natural beauty. Seabirds...

ARABUKO SOKOKE RESERVE

In the morning, we arrived at the main gate and office of the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve (๐ŸŽŸ๏ธ721 KES) to check the options and reserve our guide (2400 KES) for the afternoon. This 420-sq-km tract of natural forest โ€“ the most significant indigenous coastal forest remaining in East Africa...

SNAKE FARM & LABORATORY

We also spent some time in this humble-looking place (๐ŸŽŸ๏ธ1500 KES), one of the world’s most renowned snake research centers. Bio-Ken specializes in antivenin research and acts as an emergency service for snakebite victims throughout the region. A passionate guide led an excellent 30...

GEDE RUINS

We stopped next to the lovely coffee shop at the gate of Gede Ruins (๐ŸŽŸ๏ธ500 KES). This extensive collection of 13th- to 17th-century coral palaces, mosques, and townhouses โ€“ some of Kenya’s most important Swahili ruins โ€“ lies quietly in the jungle’s green grip. Excavation has...

KILIFI

We ended our journey today in the small coastal town of Kilifi, where we chose a resort on Bofa Beach. It is a beautiful, wide slash of white sand, with swaying palms and a rolling Indian Ocean. Kilifi is a pleasant place to live. A passionate group of Kenyans and expats have transformed...

MNARANI RUINS

We made a short stop at the partly excavated, atmospheric ruins of the Swahili city of Mnarani (๐ŸŽŸ๏ธ500 KES). It is located high on a bluff just west of the old ferry landing stage on the southern bank of Kilifi Creek. The best-preserved ruin is the Great Mosque, with its finely carved...