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SAPARA MONASTERY (საფარის)

Sapara Monastery has a dramatic position clinging to a cliff edge. It is a Georgian Orthodox monastery near the village of Ghreli, about 12km southeast of Akhaltsikhe (🚕 30 GEL/return, incl. stops and waiting). The largest of Sapara’s 12 churches, St Saba’s, with outstanding frescoes, was...

AKHALTSIKHE (ახალციხე)

Our first stop in southwest Georgia, not far from the border of Turkey, was a little town with a millennium-long history – Akhaltsikhe. It is situated on both banks of a small river, Potskhovi, which divides the city between the old town in the north and the new one in the south...

ÖŞVANK MONASTERY

Once we left Çoruh Valley, we made a short detour to visit the majestic ruins of the tenth-century Georgian monastery of Oshki. It is considered one of the four Great Cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox world. It was built during the reign of David III Kuropalates, the ruler of Tao...

ÇORUH VALLEY

We drove from Trabzon to the Georgian border, roads in Turkey are perfect, but these two days were challenging for us and our truck. On the first day, we left Uzungöl lake in the afternoon and drove in the rain on good roads through Kaçkar Mountains with steep rocky peaks (the highest...

UZUNGÖL

A one-hour drive from Trabzon to the south, in Kaçkars Mountains, you will find a lakeside mosque and forested mountains that recall Switzerland. The “hidden valley” of Uzungöl is not idyllic anymore. The tourist boom of recent years and the growing number of visitors from the Gulf States...

SÜMELA MONASTERY

We drove to the parking of the Greek Orthodox monastery dedicated to the Theotokos located near Trabzon in the Karadağ Mountains, part of the Pontic Mountains. From there is mandatory to take the minibus to the monastery (🚌 18 TRY/return, 🎫125 TRY). Sümela Monastery, founded by Greeks in...

TRABZON

Trabzon lies on a wide bay of the Black Sea, backed by high ranges of the Pontic Mountains. Trapezus, one of the most easterly of ancient Greek settlements, was probably founded in 756 BC by traders from Miletus. It has been handballed down the years between Cimmerians, Medes, Hellenes...

ORDU

Our second stop at the Black Sea coast was Ordu, a center for hazelnut processing and exporting (1 kg / 140 TRY). It lies at the mouth of the Melet River on the eastern slopes of Boztepe (550 m), a high hill that protects it against storms from the northwest. Ordu was the site of ancient...

ÜNYE

We drove slowly through the Pontic Mountains to reach the Black Sea coast. We arrived late in the busy town of Ünye, and we couldn’t find any suitable parking place near the center. It was getting dark, so we decided to overnight at Shell. The history of Ünye goes back to the Hittite...

TOKAT

Tokat is located in north-central Turkey along a tributary of the Yeşil River. Surrounded by orchards and gardens, Tokat lies on a plain beneath steep hills crowned by a ruined citadel, often identified as the ancient fortress Dazimon. Tokat stands near the site of ancient Comana of...