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SHEIKH MOUNTAINS

Later, we slowly drove on perfect tarmac through the Sheikh Mountains, a part of the Golis Mountains that form the rugged northern edge of the Somali plateau and run parallel to the Gulf of Aden. The mountains have a significant range in elevation, with the highest peak in Somaliland...

BERBERA (بربرة)

In the morning, we finally went to explore Berbera. First, we drove to the historic port, which is now part of the new port complex. It’s not possible to get there, but we got a permit via friends to drive through the port. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to get out of our car...

ROAD TO BERBERA

We drove on perfect tarmac for about 160 kilometres from Hargeisa to Berbera. We travelled from the high-altitude (1,334 m), inland city of Hargeisa, descending to the coastal town of Berbera. The wide road runs through the Galgodon Highlands and then down to the coast of the Gulf of...

LAAS GEEL

On our way to Berbera, we made a stop and a short off-road drive to Laas Geel, a cave complex famous for ancient rock paintings dating back to the Neolithic period, roughly 9,000 to 3,000 BCE (🎟️35 USD, paid in office in Hargeisa). Other sources suggest a date of around 6,000 years ago...

CAMEL FARM

Today, late afternoon, we drove a few kilometres behind the capital to see the milking of camels. Camels have historically been central to Somali culture, symbolising status and pride. Camel farms in Somaliland, particularly in Hargeisa, are a significant part of the nation’s...

HARGEISA (هرجيسا)

We spent one day in Somaliland’s capital, located in a valley within the Galgodon (Ogo) highlands of northwestern Somaliland, at an elevation of approximately 1,334 meters. Hargeisa’s history began as a watering and trading stop founded by the Isaaq Sultanate in the 19th...

BORAMA (بورما)

Our first excursion brought us to Borama, located in mountainous terrain at an elevation of 1,467 meters. We drove there on good tarmac through several easy checkpoints. This location, with fertile land close to the Ethiopian border, has created a green environment that stands out against...

DHAGAH KUREH

After some heavy searching, we finally found Dhagah Kureh, located about 45 kilometres northwest of Hargeisa. It is a significant Neolithic rock art site, known for its extensive ancient paintings that provide insight into the lives of early pastoralist communities. Situated among granite...

YEMREHANNA KRISTOS CHURCH

For centuries, the church was extremely remote, requiring a long and arduous journey on foot or by mule. We had no mule, so we took a car and drove through villages controlled by the Fano militia to reach the parking area, from which we still had to hike for 30 minutes up a steep path to...

ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES

In the morning, we paid a pretty adventurous entrance fee (🎟️ 100 USD / 15,000 ETB) to see the Lalibela rock churches. The complex was built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries under King Gebre Meskel Lalibela of the Zagwe dynasty to create a “New Jerusalem” in Ethiopia...