Located 92km southwest of Kigali, Nyanza is the former royal capital and home to the King’s Palace compound (🎟️13000 RWF). Before colonial rule, the monarchy was scattered across 50 or so residences in Rwanda; it was only in 1899 that they set up camp permanently in Nyanza. It was here where the Tutsi kings remained until they were ousted during the Rwanda Revolution in 1959, when the newly elected pro-Belgian, Hutu-led government voted to end the kingdom in 1961. Rwanda’s last king, Kigeli V Ndahindurwa, was sent to exile, along with 330,000 Tutsis, in a precursor to the events of 1994.
While the monarchy is officially no more, in 2017, King Yuhi VI, Emmanuel Bushayija (1960–), nephew of Ndahindurwa and a naturalized British citizen who lives in a council flat in Manchester, was proclaimed the ceremonial successor to the royal title.
Sitting atop Nyanza Hill, the King’s Palace Museum mixes the ingenuity of traditional African design with all the expected regal pomp and ceremony. Its centrepiece is the striking beehive thatched hut palace, meticulously reconstructed and moved here from its original site. It sits alongside the royal beer brewer’s hut and milk-making hut – which ties in nicely to see the inyambo (royal cows). The third part of the royal compound is the ‘new’ Western-style palace (1931) and the former residence of King Mutara III Rudahigwa. Though most of the furniture and gifts from visiting dignitaries were stolen during the genocide, it is furnished in period style to accompany what’s essentially a museum showcasing Rwanda’s royal dynasty.
We didn’t miss the opportunity to get up close and personal with the magnificent inyambo (royal cows). Located at the back of the royal compound, these extraordinary creatures have gigantic horns that grow to almost 2m. A cattle rearer serenaded us with a traditional ballad.
After the visit, we hired a local guide (30000 RWF) and made a 15-kilometer trail around the neighbourhood. It took us almost 4 hours, but it was a great chance to explore the hilly area of Nyanza.
Parking location – Nyanza: 2.354591S 29.749796E (🚻,🅿️30000 RWF)